Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
