Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. However, situated high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.
This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally shocked.
“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.
It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.
Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.
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